Florida's commercial stone crab season opens in mid-October and runs to the beginning of May. For most of the country that is a menu item. Around Marco it is the calendar that the working waterfront runs on.
The claws that appear on southwest Florida menus in late October are landed at places like Goodland, on Marco's southeast corner, and at Everglades City forty-five minutes east, both of which have been crab and fishing communities far longer than Marco has been a resort.
Why it is claws and not crabs
Stone crab is one of the few genuinely renewable wild fisheries in American waters. Traps are baited and set in shallow water; a legal-size claw is removed and the live crab is returned to the sea, where it regrows the limb over subsequent moults. Regulations govern minimum claw size, how many claws may be taken and the handling of the animal, and they have been tightened in recent years to improve survival rates.
That process is also why the claws are expensive. Each one is a single harvest from a living animal, they are cooked almost immediately on the boat or at the dock because raw claw meat sticks to the shell, and they arrive graded by size, with the largest grades priced far above the smallest.
Practical notes for a visitor
Prices move week to week and grade to grade, and early season is typically the dearest as supply builds. Nobody can quote you a figure in advance that will still be right.
Claws are served cold with mustard sauce as a matter of local convention rather than law, and most places will crack them for you.
The season's opening does not mean claws appear everywhere on day one; it takes a week or two for volume to reach restaurants.
If you are here between May and October, what you are being offered is frozen or previously frozen from the last season, which is legal and perfectly good, but it is worth knowing rather than assuming otherwise.
And if you want the atmosphere as much as the food, eat at the working end. The difference between a claw on a resort terrace and a claw two hundred yards from the boat that landed it is mostly in your head, but not entirely.